Restaurants get up to all kinds of shenanigans to entertain their customers, the better to keep us knocking back after-dinner grappas. What'll it be: Brazilian capoeira? Strolling mandolinists? Interactive mystery plays? Lap dances? But a snapping G-string interferes with the proper appreciation of one's snapper Livornese; cover tunes are a better digestif. Particularly when they're performed by a sleek Italian fox — er, vocalist — with a grasp of phrasing to rival Sinatra's. Giovanni turns up the heat on a plate of clams oreganata or a bowl of orecchiette con cimidirape — not that the food at Frankie's Pier 5 needs a single grace note of help. The man's sibilant presence nourishes the heart while the extended Perrone family concentrates on filling the belly. Whether this chiseled godlet is practicing variations on themes of Elton John, Coldplay, or Cole Porter, never has eye-candy tasted so sweet.